Morgan’s Hill
Morgan’s Hill is one of the highest points in Wiltshire and one of the best places in the county to experience the sights and sounds of a chalk downland landscape. Indeed the reserve is a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) for its orchids, butterflies and for the general quality of its grassland.
Wildlife
An unusual feature of the reserve is that all three of the UK’s native conifer trees can be found here – Scots Pine (Pinus sylvestris), Juniper (Juniperus) and Yew (Taxus baccata). One theory is that the trees were planted as way-markers to signpost the drovers’ route, along the Roman road.
Eleven species of orchid have been recorded on site. These range from the widespread species such as the Common Spotted (Dactylorhiza fuchsia) and Early Purple Orchids (Orchis mascula), to rarer varieties like the Fly (Ophrys insectifera), Bee (Ophrys apifera) and Frog (Coeloglossum viride) Orchids, as well as the Marsh Helleborine (Epipactis palustris) - the only known downland occurrence of this species in Britain.
Cowslips (Primula veris), Primroses (Primula) and Violets (Viola) grace the slopes in spring, and Wild Thyme (Thymus polytrichus), Horseshoe Vetch (Hippocrepis comosa), Common Rock Rose (Helianthemum nummularium) and Bird’s Foot Trefoil (Lotus corniculatus) in summer.
Butterflies found here include the Adonis Blue (Lysandra bellargus) and Chalkhill Blue (Lysandra coridon) as well as the Marsh Fritillary (Eurodryas aurinia) – one of the UK’s most endangered species of butterfly which feeds only on the Devil’s-bit Scabious (Succisa pratensis).
Another rare species, the Duke of Burgundy Fritillary (Hamearis lucina), and the Dark Green Fritillary (Argynnis aglaja), Green Hairstreak (Callophrys rubi) and Brown Argus (Aricia agestis) also make their home here.
Birds found at the reserve include the Great Spotted Woodpecker (Dendrocopos major), Buzzard (Buteo buteo), Yellowhammers (Emberiza citrinella) and Skylark (Alauda arvensis).
History and management
The land was part of the Bishop of Salisbury’s manor of Bishop’s Cannings (tithe land) from before 1086 until 1858, when it was sold to the Crown. The Marconi Company erected steel masts on Morgan’s Hill sometime before 1914 as part of a chain of wireless stations.
First known as Crocombe Down or Cocombe Down, it became called Morgan’s Hill after 1720 when local man John Morgan was executed and hung near the site for all to see for murdering his uncle.
A Roman road from London to Bath runs along the reserve’s northern boundary, and the Wansdyke along its southern boundary. The Wansdyke was built in the fifth century to defend the northern territory of Wessex (Kingdom West Saxon) against Mercia. It was originally a large bank fronted by a deep ditch running 72km east to west.
The land was grazed by sheep, oxen and cows belonging to a succession of tenant farmers. A quarry was dug in the 1940s when chalk was extracted to make lime for agricultural fertilizer. The spoils were dumped nearby, leaving small humps that pepper the hillside today.
Morgan’s Hill is now part of the Trust’s New Life for Chalk Grassland Project, which aims to restore unmanaged grassland and revert marginal arable land back to grassland.
The Trust uses the diminutive Dexter cattle and Herdwick sheep to keep down the scrub, Brambles (Rubus), Hawthorns (Crataegus monogyna), Ash (Fraxinus excelsior)) and coarse grasses, which would otherwise shade out the wildflowers.
Other Information
Dogs are allowed, but must be on a short leash at all times of year.
Best time to visit: All year round, but early summer for orchids and late summer for flowers such as Devil’s bit Scabious and Round-headed Rampion.
Habitat: Chalk downland.
Specialities of the reserve: orchids and butterflies
Location: from Devizes head north along A361 towards Swindon. Take first turning left towards Calne on brow of hill. After a few miles turn right into Smallgrain picnic site, just past the golf course. Walk up grass slope towards the byway, turn right and walk up gently rising slope for 0.5 mile until reserve entrance comes into view. The byway leading to the reserve is deeply rutted and not suitable for wheelchair users. Warning for cyclists: the road approaching the picnic site is steep, windy, narrow and fast. Grid reference SU 025 672.
